Fence Planning Checklist: Before You Dig the First Hole

Most fence problems are planning problems: a boundary in the wrong place, a gate that does not fit, or posts that are short of concrete. Work through this checklist before you buy materials.

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1. Boundaries, rules and neighbors

  • Confirm where the property line is — a survey or property plat is the reliable source.
  • Check local height limits, permit requirements and any homeowners' association rules.
  • Pool fences have specific safety requirements in many places.
  • Talk to neighbors, especially for a shared boundary fence.
  • Call the utility locating service before digging (811 in the US; check local services elsewhere).

2. Choose a style

Common fence styles
StyleBuilt withNotes
PicketPosts, 2 rails, spaced picketsDecorative, 3–4 ft high
Privacy / board-on-boardPosts, 3 rails, tight or overlapping boardsUsually 6 ft
Panel (UK)Posts and pre-made 1.83 m panelsFast; panel width fixes post spacing
Close-board (UK)Posts, arris rails, feather-edge boardsStrong, site-built

3. Lay out the line

  1. Stake the ends and corners and run a string line.
  2. Measure the total length along the string.
  3. Mark gate positions and widths; subtract gates from the fence length.
  4. Divide the remaining length by post spacing and round up to get sections.
  5. Posts = sections + 1 per continuous run, plus one extra for each gate.

Example: 100 ft with one 4 ft gate and 8 ft spacing → 96 ft ÷ 8 = 12 sections → 13 posts + 1 for the gate = 14 posts.

4. Post size and depth

Common posts are 4 × 4 in (100 × 100 mm) for most fences and 6 × 6 in or 125 mm for gates and tall or exposed runs. A rule of thumb is to bury about one-third of the post's above-ground height — roughly 2 ft for a 6 ft fence — and go below frost depth where frost heave is an issue. Gate posts benefit from deeper, larger holes.

5. Concrete per post

Concrete fills the hole minus the post. A 10 in diameter hole 24 in deep is about 1.09 cu ft; subtracting a 3.5 in square post leaves about 0.92 cu ft per hole — about two and a half 50 lb bags or one and a half 80 lb bags, before waste. Our fence calculator does this per hole and totals it.

6. Materials list

  • Posts, plus post caps if wanted.
  • Rails (2 for picket, 3 for 6 ft privacy).
  • Pickets or boards, with 5% extra for culls and cuts — or panels.
  • Gravel for drainage at the bottom of each hole.
  • Concrete or post mix.
  • Fasteners: exterior-rated nails or screws.
  • Gate kit: hinges, latch and drop bolt for wide gates.

Gates done right

Gates are the most-used and most-stressed part of a fence. Set gate posts deeper and in larger holes than line posts, and consider 6 × 6 in (or 125 mm) posts for heavy or wide gates. Leave the clearance the hardware requires — often around ½ in (12 mm) at the latch side and enough at the bottom for the ground to rise slightly. Wide driveway gates are better as a pair, each with a drop bolt into the ground.

A diagonal brace on a wooden gate should run from the bottom hinge side up to the top latch side so it holds the gate in compression and prevents sagging. Gate kits with an adjustable anti-sag cable are an alternative.

Slopes and uneven ground

On sloping ground you can either step or rack the fence. Stepped fences keep each section level and drop at each post, leaving triangular gaps underneath that may need gravel boards or plinths. Racked fences follow the slope with the rails parallel to the ground; site-built picket and board fences can be racked, but most pre-made panels cannot. Posts on a stepped fence are taller on the downhill side, so measure the step height at each post when ordering post lengths.

Maintenance and lifespan

Plan for maintenance from the start. Keep wood out of contact with soil where possible — gravel boards along the bottom of panels and a gravel layer at the base of each post hole help. Treated posts rated for ground contact last much longer than untreated wood; concrete or steel posts are alternatives for panel fences. Stain or preservative every few years extends the life of softwood boards.

Costing the fence

Price the fence per section: one post, the rails, the pickets or a panel, the post concrete and fasteners. Multiply by the number of sections and add the gates. Comparing the cost per foot or per meter makes it easy to see how much a taller fence, closer post spacing or a premium board adds — and whether a different style fits the budget better.

7. On the day

  • Set the end and corner posts first and run a string line for the rest.
  • Brace posts plumb until the concrete has set.
  • Slope the concrete top away from the post to shed water.
  • Wait for the concrete cure time on the bag before hanging gates.

Calculators for this guide

  • Fence Calculator — Estimate fence posts, rails, pickets or panels and post-hole concrete for any fence length, with gates and real post sizes.
  • Concrete Bag Calculator — How many bags of concrete do you need? Compare 40, 60 and 80 lb or 20, 25 and 30 kg bags, total weight and cost — with the math shown.
  • Board Foot Calculator — Convert lumber dimensions to board feet and cubic meters, and price hardwood or dimensional lumber by the board foot.

More guides

Estimates only. This guide explains general methods. Verify quantities with your supplier and follow local building codes; for structural or safety-critical work consult a licensed professional. Editorial policy · Report an error.